Interview with the Institute of Digital Fashion
An emblem of change
The Institute of Digital Fashion (IoDF) is an emblem for change in a broken society. Our dear friend, the Co-founder of CommuneEAST, Leanne Elliott Young and Cattytay, Creative Director and Founder of community Digi-Gxl, created a new partnership and business venture to launch, The Institute of Digital Fashion.
We found out a little bit about the aims of the IoDF for our Fashion’s Digital Show(off) article but wanted to dig deeper into the core of IoDF and find out more. Here, Jodi Muter-Hamilton, our founder, talks to Leanne and Cattytay to find out more about their aims, hopes & dreams, and what’s on the horizon for IoDF.
Jodi: Tell us the story of how Leanne Elliott Young and Digi-Gxl Cattytay met and decided to create your new venture and how it differs from CommuneEAST?
Catty: We met whilst on the panel for the Dazed x Colmar LFW ‘Fashion Disruptors: Fashion in the digital age.’ straight away you could tell we both shared the same crazy energy and vision for the future.
Leanne: It was one of those love at first sight moments, we immediately locked into an existing and expansive discourse, it was deeply inspiring to hear Cattytay talk and we wove into each other musings of the future, Also so many likings within our manifestos, both not reactionary but as the backbone of our thinking, we are known for breaking echo chambers and building inclusive spaces for active change, I knew this was going to be a long ride, it felt just right. Through the IoDF we have come together as a symbiotic relationship, The difference between CommuneEAST and Digi-gxl and IoDF is IDF isn't just a new venture between us it’s a manifesto, IoDF is an emblem for change in a broken industry, we are pooling our energy, services, contacts, communities, our experience all to build a space for active change, the semantics of fashion are changing. We are pushing to change an industry that's already on its knees, the archaic beast that is the fashion industry needs to be reinvented, the model, the production, the shows, showrooms and its thinking, we need a progressive, challenging, innovative new landscape and we are here to shape that. Let's use technology and digital to build a new future for an unregulated and biased industry. With Cattytay’s highly-applauded intricate skill set and the pioneer of digital fashion and the extended GLO_CAL network of 3D makers, coupled with the strategic industry positioning of CommuneEAST, The Institute of Digital Fashion is the go-to, with technical ability like no other, we have world-class services likening to none. Our unique offering and expertise enable us to advise, build and deliver the impossible. We have an open doors policy, so get in touch, we are a house here to nurture. Join us and create A Space of Exchange and Innovation. Representation, education and support are delivered both IRL and URL at our London HQ with free co-working spaces, career advice, fair representation all for BAME, LGBTQIA+ demographics and typically disenfranchised communities, we are starting submissions this week so reach out info@institute-digital.fashion
A Space of Exchange and Innovation, The Institute of Digital Fashion.
A key issue with digital making is the fact the craft artisan and worktime involved is massively underestimated and misunderstood, we have had pitches through asking for 20 garments by end of the week, assuming there is a magical go button, there is nothing to say this isn't possible but let's build some industry insight on the work involved, We are aiming to push for regulation on pay for services so there is an industry-standard, equating the artisan involved and time it takes. The awful situation would be if digital making fell into the trap that the fashion industry is plagued with, services for portfolio growth, low balling fees so you can have a brand listed on your site/ portfolio, this we have already seen, we are urging creatives not to do this, speak to us, we can assist with budgets, production and take on comms to push for the right pay under the IoDF house. Together we can challenge those brands who ask for free renders or making, together we can make a change so join us, reach out and be a part of our challenge to push digital making and re-invent this industry for the better. We have a board which includes glo-cal champions through tech, sustainability and fellow advocates for change, we have various partners through tech and industry, we can reveal more at the end of the month! This pandemic and the BLM movement has lead to various fluxes, of new thought, of contemplation, anger and deep emotional turmoil. We launched the IDF last month with our key mission to drive and to actively push for bold new futures, inclusive, diverse and sustainable ones, now more than ever we feel that we need this, our decision to come together feels more right than we ever could have thought. You can reach out to us and join us in our mission for representation, education, support and submissions for co-working spaces. We have been challenged on why we have a philanthropic arm to this venture? Why do so much, why not just stick with making digital clothing, to be frank, its because we really give a fuck, we want to change the system, work for our communities to receive better pay to have fair representation, some say we are digging too much but we think we could all do a little more no? If anything, that's what these last few months have really proved. We will be in the first round of hires next month, plus we are working with some key industry partners to reimagine LFW, even though we have a full inbox, do mail regarding work and get into touch.
Jodi As you know (due to our other features!) we’re big fans of CommuneEast and Leanne Elliott Young, but tell us more about Digi-gxl Cattytay. What does the Digi-Gxl world look, sound and feel like?
Catty: Starting in early 2018, the Digi-Gxl network is a global community of womxn, trans folk, intersex and non-binary people working in digital media. We are a very close-knit community, in the 300’s, It’s rooted in 3D design and animation, a network of individuals that make, obsess and push the boundaries throughout 3D design and animation, digital fashion and 3D clothing, 3D product and accessory design, Spark AR, creative coding, 3D scanning, motion design, augmented reality, virtual reality, creative direction, graphic design and more. It also allows for space on wider conversation and support from making, freelancing, studying, and cyberbullying. It has bloomed into many friendships, as well as collaborators. What I love most about the network is that there is always someone to talk to 24 hours a day. DG acts as a sounding board filled with artists and designers from all over the world. No matter who is online DG is always awake, and always looking after you. DG is a place for everything. As well as being birthed through online connectivity, we also connect and plan physical meet-ups in smaller pockets around the world. With the Institute Of Digital Fashion aligned with Digi-gxl we can really harness the radical potential of digital pushing fashion into a new echelon, from studio to consumption. The fashion industry as a whole is fixed on tradition: body types, gendered fashion weeks, design processes and the retail sphere. Let's build a different version of that tradition!
“An important part of our work is paving the way for marginalised gender identities to thrive in the tech sector by amplifying their voices.”
An important part of our work is paving the way for marginalised gender identities to thrive in the tech sector by amplifying their voices. As the founder of Digi-gxl, I stand as the Creative Director, we have delivered projects for Nike, Selfridges, and queer collective, Pxssy Palace, that centres Queer womxn, Trans, NB & Intersex POC. We also curated tech workshops for young womxn from ages 16-19 years, in partnership with The Institute of Coding. I have a background in Textile Design studying at Chelsea College of Art and Design, but I knew there was more potential than just the physical, so I started playing, learning and began pushing these normative physicalities into digital territories. I haven't looked back, I enjoy the lack of restraints in the digital, you can take the viewer on journeys beyond their realities, we are stepping into the future and that is what is so interesting, we can rebuild the future and think more, innovate and build a less traditional sense of reality, that is diverse, inclusive and sustainable. My work sits in luxury fashion but with a big vision of the future, I also breathe the never tech for tech sake something which Leanne also stands by, we live in a tactile reality we can not deny that that’s a big thing with the tech movements a lot of the time the human element is removed, ignored or just denied. I have worked with brands as notable as Alexander Wang, Balenciaga, Chloe, Rick Owens, Raf Simons and Selfridges, with the IoDF we are heavily concentrating in couture, Paris and NYC but we are looking forward to stepping back on home turf for September; The transition into IoDF is a fluid one, Digi-gxl is a thriving community, it just has another mum now, Leanne and a place to build a mission on equality and fair pay within the fashion arena.
August Getty Atelier work in progress of building a digital avatar. Image courtesy of IoDF and August Getty Atelier
Jodi: The current Covid-19 situation has accelerated all brands and businesses to adopt digital and tech solutions at pace, whether they had an online consumer/community experience strategy underway already or not. What are you doing to ensure that brands don’t fall into the trap of digital ‘quick fix’ solutions, but embed digital as a way of doing everything?
Catty: Covid-19 has radically affected every corner of the fashion industry. URL is the new IRL but digital is not just a quick fix for the now — it is a tool of expansion to create a more inclusive, democratic fashion industry in the future. The key message for us is tech should never be a quick fix, it needs to be right, thought through and have a strategy behind it, we build strategic offerings that champion the product and deliver ROI as well as succinctly create digital narratives. What is possible through digital? We are at a time now where it’s just the tip of the iceberg in what is possible, we believe in not mirroring our IRL realities but building new expansive and inclusive ones, where everything is possible, with our environments you can fly around the globe and back to your armchair without boarding a plane. The digital fashion products that we create are far greater than just simple 3D models, or quick renders. Not only do we have the craftsmanship to visually imitate garments, but we also have the expertise to produce digital products that actually function, respond and behave as they would in physical spaces, and beyond that, we can remove gravity even! This level of precision is developed through mimicking every detail, such as internal linings, infracting and stitching. We focus on the specifics, manually adapting fabric properties - shrinkage, density, friction etc - in order to create a truly responsive garment that is second to none in the act of digital replication. Our digital garments, shows, showrooms and digital environments all have endless possibilities, and our messaging is always let's make them inclusive ones. We are ambitious about utilising digital advances to drive inclusivity and diversity. The Institute of Digital Fashion is about pushing the parameters of digital fashion to really explore the language of digital and where it can be used within the tactile parameters of reality, ask for a rate card on services, you won’t get that, but we’ll sit with you, listen and draft up something that fits the brand, champion it, talks to your customer and reaches further, into the hearts and hold a mission statement too, we are artists not bots. We can offer brand strategies and expertise on how to embed digital technology within their whole supply chain, through design and sell, or we can craft an ethereal live show that merges augmented and IRL realities.
Jodi: Technology, sustainability and democracy. These themes have been close to our hearts for a long time and I know yours too, why are they such strong drivers for you and how do they manifest in The Institute of Digital Fashion?
“No one brand can fix fashion’s sustainability problem, but together as an industry, we can make conscious steps towards a cleaner future.”
Leanne: I think we answered above? Some more here ... The sustainability benefits of digital making, within the production and the showcasing, are immense, it's crazy it's taking so long to realise them, even now it feels like a ‘way out’ solution when we are discussing the possibilities, it seems in fashion the clueless wardrobe is still the go-to? The ability to change out fabrics, cuts, styles, being able to broadcast to millions, to push more on-demand purchases. The industry needs to wake up and take stock, the decisions brands make now will define their futures. We believe in a more sustainable industry. The industry is overshadowed by overconsumption. Every collection leaves an indelible carbon footprint. No one brand can fix fashion’s sustainability problem, but together as an industry, we can make conscious steps towards a cleaner future. IoDF believes in the sustainability positives of digital making. The creative industries are an active part of the climate crisis, and we feel that everyone is responsible for the impact of our work on the world around us. We support the production of creative worlds in URL, rather than destroying our existing IRL world.
Jodi: You’ve stated that you want to challenge the hierarchical system of fashion shows and move away from an industry fixed on tradition: of body types, gendered fashion weeks, design processes and the retail sphere. Why is this so important, and why now?
Leanne: WE BELIEVE IN A MORE DEMOCRATIC INDUSTRY. Over the last decade, the digital world has revolutionised the fashion industry. Exclusivity has given way to access as digital tools have opened up a dialogue between audiences and consumers, brands and institutions. luxury fashion can be watched in real-time anywhere. success and influence are measured in likes and comments. brands have become more accountable to their consumers. Digital stores are infinite, with no square footage SIZE NO LONGER MATTERS, brands can offer garments in near-infinite sizes and styles for all consumers, not just those that fit old-world body standards.
Catty: Designers who build their garments onto one fit-model and showcase the whole collection using the same size bodies, are always excluding the wider demographic. The gendered fashion weeks were very archaic, and it is a great thing that these binary systems have been broken down. As a Gen fluid person, I am extremely passionate about breaking these traditions and asks the question - where would a person show a non-binary collection? Would they have to choose whether their collection felt more for women or more for men and find themselves misrepresented by an unnecessarily archaic structure? Why now? Through utilising digital craft, we can seamlessly integrate and combat these traditions. Digital inclusivity looks like the efficient integration of multiple sized base models, throughout the supply chain from sampling to customer. Digital inclusivity looks like customer interaction, engagement and personalisation, through the seamless union of adaptive garment visualisation and diverse body bases.
“Digital inclusivity looks like the efficient integration of multiple sized base models, throughout the supply chain from sampling to customer. Digital inclusivity looks like customer interaction, engagement and personalisation, through the seamless union of adaptive garment visualisation and diverse body bases. ”
Leanne Elliott Young and Pippa Brooks modelling for Art School London Fashion Show, February 2020
Jodi: How do you feel that a digital fashion show experience compares to a live, in-real-life show? What are the pros and cons?
An in-real-life show is 15 minutes in out and you are done, on to the next one. The majority of people use this time to document every look via their iphone, only to upload and be viewed by others online. Fashion shows have always experienced a massive disconnection with this anyway. Physical shows thrive on exclusivity, the audience is heavily restricted and often misrepresents who these clothes are actually for and destroys any potential feeling of community behind the brand. The deployment of digital fashion experiences can push inclusivity of its audiences, allowing for designers to connect with a wider range of its community, fans, and buyers, from across the globe without attending a physical show. We are working towards ways in which the digital fashion show experience can be more emotive, connect deeper to its audiences, and generate deeper digital legacies through. Despite not being physically present, digital showcases can actually allow for a deeper connection with the garments, the brand, and the stories behind the collection. At a physical production, walking up and touching the garments mid show is a big no-no. We want to challenge this tradition, showcasing digital garments that you can not only move, inspect, navigate around, but garments that can also act as tools to provide personal experiences catered to every customer. The ability to visualise the change of fabrics, sizing, the cut. This level of interactivity builds a deeper digital legacy - pushing digital developments to create garments for multiple audiences from buyer to customer. There is so much power and connectivity through instant interactivity - watching a runway show that is inclusive of all bodies, tastes, and personal preferences.
Above images: Art School Fashion Show February 2020 featuring digital filters. Plus Row Steward walking at the show and at Art School’s afterparty.
Jodi: What does The Institute of Digital Fashion create for brands who want to explore digital garment sampling methods?
Catty: We have the abilities to work with brands who wish to explore garment sample methods. We can digitally fabricate ideas, designs and samples even from early sketched stages, working with the designer to build multiple samples and garment variations.
Jodi: Consumers are often the ones who push brands to become more digitally experimental or expect new ways to communicate and build relationships with brands. The Institute of Digital Fashion is a Business-to-Business venture, how do you feel consumers (will) react to your direction and desires for the industry?
Catty: We are always listening.
Jodi: CommuneEast have been at the forefront of the digital fashion landscape for a while working with brands and organisations including the British Fashion Council, Dazed, Nike, Frieze Art Fair, The Selfridges Group. Now, with the 3D design and animation, coding, augmented reality and virtual reality skills (to name a few) that the Digi-gxl community offers, it seems like the perfect partnership. Often, for tech/digital/innovation companies the biggest threat to them not being hired is not from a competitor in the market, but from within the company you are pitching to. How do you make sure your ideas and solutions are the winners and importantly are not copied?
Leanne: This is a real issue, NDA's are bantered around but really IP is hard to prove, for us at IoDF we bring in a skill set, strategy and creative ideation, stealing all of these touchpoints would make it an obvious theft. Cultural osmosis occurs a lot too, we are all responding to the same sociopolitical elemental ideas, in plain sight, you can see that happening. For us, we bring a lot to the table, we challenge a lot of the processes and functionality as well as creative solutions. We have seen work be imitated.
Jodi: You are hoping to inspire the fashion industry to “sell creativity, not more clothes”. How do you feel this will play out for the current economic growth model of the fashion industry?
Catty: Brands must learn from the pandemic - to slow down and create less. We must use digital technology to generate a new form of emotional connectivity, creating a higher quality product that holds both physical and digital layering. Digital layering allows us to ‘sell creativity’ through the incorporation of interactivity and modularity. Digital layering allows for one garment to do more over time, as an example, creating Augmented Reality drops after purchase, generating longevity to one single piece of clothing.
Leanne: This message is really important to us, sustainability is a key part of our manifesto, digital inherently is sustainable, but it’s beyond that, we are looking at solutions and process that can really negotiate some of the issues in production. As a strategist, these are the exciting problems, problem-solving is a big part of what we do, we bring solutions to problems. Selling creativity and not more clothes questions some of the wider semantics of fashion too, things are changing, we've seen digital showcases from couture, London and Paris and people have eased into the new normal which is a blend of digital, we haven't seen yet though any real big activations? Which is why we are especially excited to be launching our project firstly a series at the end of July with August Getty Atelier for Couture.
“This poetic series touches on the sociological contexts of today in a view to building a new universe for change. Showcasing the innovative genius of August Getty, this season working with a digital atelier IoDF: Institute Of Digital Fashion to create a modern, biopic a bold alternative to the tired narratives of couture, a series, not a show, a new world not our old one.”
Jodi: I’m are super excited to see what’s up the digital sorcerer's sleeves for The Institute of Digital Fashion, can you tell us anything about the future, what you’ve been work on or how we can keep up with all your explorations?
Leanne: We have the August Getty collaboration, plus a LFW digital project, live in the streets of London AN EMBLEM FOR CHANGE: beyond the crisis IoDF volume 001. Then we have a Selfridges takeover for LFW: Project Earth - 2025 Fashion Futures - Powered by IoDF. We will create a LFW TAKEOVER of @theofficialselfridges for Project Earth. An introduction to future solutions, powered by IoDF. Begin to reimagine, where digital and physical realities intertwine. We question the traditions of the schedule, the POV, the mechanics of the beast and ask who does it serve? We dissect and demystify the digital processes and step into a new future. We step into the future and build that reality, breaking social norms and building an inclusive, diverse and sustainable new reality. All details launching on Selfridges, IoDF website, instagram and through our mailout.
Sign up to Selfridges Project Earth presents: a webinar hosted by Leanne Elliot Young and Catty Tay, co-founders of the Institute of Digital Fashion
Find out more about Selfridges Project Earth and the events schedule
20.08.2020
